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When assembling a list of London’s best dining spots, one might expect well-known Michelin-starred establishments. But, situated high among these culinary heavyweights is a modest salonu found in a far-flung corner of north London.

An Unexpected Recognition

The little Turkish restaurant, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the city by a prominent culinary publication. This honour has left the family utterly astonished.

“I’m totally astonished,” says the proprietor, referring to his family’s dedication that led to their humble shop earning such a high ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

This compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing spot, has kept much of its earlier charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking display, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the cuisine, and this establishment more than excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a moist, juicy quality.

It is then thrown into a large pan with spices and oil, which are added in gradually. Once the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is typically eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic described this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than usual, imparting it a more intense, more aromatic and less sickly profile.

Rising Above the Titans

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for below £25, comparable experiences at high-end establishments can cost many times that figure.

The Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to reveal what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Dedication

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite restaurants. “I am truly happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a social life but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to have meaning beyond its own walls. “I believe many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the wider significance of this gastronomic honour.