Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and travelers alike celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, Unesco recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a select roster of world cities and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it enters a international community of more than four hundred cities across over 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "demonstrates its centuries-old food heritage and lively gastronomic culture," as stated by a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this venerable city is no surprise to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, chaotic, and vibrant city – the capital of India's most populous state – is at last in the spotlight for what has always characterized its soul: an unparalleled love for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a ongoing conversation from morning until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, evolved, and taken to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of culinary innovations, fusing Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the mutton galouti was invented to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just highlights local ingredients but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on countless corners, there are small establishments and stalls – lesser-known treasures that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a unpretentious joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and involved. The artisan whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though express concern that their younger generation are reluctant to learn the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will encourage more people globally to discover these narratives and experience the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
